Frequently Asked Questions
Please visit our new YouTube Channel for some helpful videos to help with installation, maintenance, programming, and troubleshooting.
|SHORT FILTER CYCLES BETWEEN CLEANINGS||Improper cleaning||*Wash Filters Thoroughly And Carefully. Cleaner Needs To Be Soaked In Chemical Cleaner Designed For Cartridge Filters. The Cleaner Can Be Purchased In Our Retail Store.
*Make Sure The Valves Are Positioned Properly, Pressure Gauge Is Working And The Plumbing Has No Obstructions
|Water not balanced||High ph or alkalinity levels cause calcification of the filter element. A low chlorine level encourages algae growth, which clogs the pores of the cartridges.
**Be Certain That The Ph, Total Alkalinity And Hardness Levels Are Kept Within The Recommended Ranges
|FILTER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE CLEANING PROPERLY; CLOUDY WATER||System is not running enough hours per day||Check the flow rate to be sure the filter cycle is long enough to turn over the pool water volume|
|Air in the filter tank||Air Will Cause A Failure Of The Water To Pass Through Portions Of The Filter Elements Bleed The Air From The Filter.
Check For Leaks On The Suction Side Of The System, And/Or Check The Water Level In The Pool.
||Cartridge not properly seated, is torn, or has become weakened.
|Be sure that the cartridge is properly seated and that there are no tears between any of the pleats.
In addition, cartridges can become weak or “mushy” over a period of time and may allow water to pass over the top without passing through the filter. If this is the case, replace the cartridge element.
|WATER IS LEAKING AROUND THE FILTER AREA||Damaged/worn O-rings, tank, or loosened plumbing fittings||Determine The Origin Of The Leak.
Turn The Pump On And Bleed By Opening The Air-Relief Valve At The Top Of The Filter. If The Filter Is Leaking At The Clamp, Remove The Clamp And Filter Top, And Clean And Inspect The Entire Area And O-Ring. The O-Ring Should Be Pliable And Round, Or Needs To Be Replaced.
Also Inspect The Mating Surfaces Of The Top And Bottom Portions Of The Filter Assembly For Cracks.
If The Tank Itself Is Leaking, We Recommend Replacement Of The Unit
|PILOT WON’T LIGHT||Is heater switch on?
Is gas valve turned to pilot on?
|Make sure gas is turned on and heater switch (located inside the heater unit) is turned to the “pilot on” position and follow manufacturer instructions to safely light the pilot|
|HEATER DOESN’T REACH DESIRED TEMPERATURE||Is the thermostat up to temperature?||Thermostat may be set too low. Adjust temperature.
Outside air temperatures and inadequate gas supply may be the cause.
|Thermostat may not be reading temperatures||Replace thermostat|
|Inadequate water flow||Filters could be dirty. Clean cartridge filters or backwash if you have a sand filter.
There may be a closed valve, external by-pass needs adjusting or pressure switch is out of adjustment
|DIGITAL HEATERS||Unit will not fire up||Make sure electricity/gas is on
*if you receive an error message, check manual for code If your heater is going through a control panel, check panel settings and timers
|HEATER IS LEAKING WATER||Heat exchanger may be leaking||Winterizing drain cocks requiring tightening/replacing.
Pressure switch may require replacment.
Heater exchanger may require replacement.
Heater requires replacement
Call our service department to schedule an appointment
|Water dripping sound||Water temperature is too low.
Condensation inside heater.
Racked heater exchanger. Call a licensed gas technician, or call service to replace heater.
|**THIS IS ONE LARGE GAS APPLIANCE. ONLY LICENSED GAS TECHNICIANS CAN SERVICE YOUR UNIT.||If any of the above solutions do not fix the problem with your heater, call hayward’s troubleshooting line at 1-888-238-7665.||Your heater should be serviced & cleaned by a licensed gas technician every season. Spiders/bugs in the unit can obstruct the gas flow effecting the operation of the heater.|
|INSPECT CELL LIGHT ON||Reminder message||The unit has a built in reminder for you to check and clean the salt cell if necessary. It will flash “inspect cell” after approx. 500 hours. After inspecting and cleaning cell if necessary, perform the following;|
Press the small diagnostic button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing “inspect cell” led
*if the light comes back on after 24 hours, cleaning your cell is required
|Make sure electricity/gas is on
*if you receive an error message, check manual for code
If your heater is going through a control panel, check panel settings and timers
|CHECK SALT & INSPECT CELL LIGHT ON||Salt level low||Verify salt level is 2700-3400ppm and check with independent test to ensure accuracy. 3200ppm is ideal.
If level is too low, add salt. *have your water tested before adding salt to ensure you are putting the right amount in*
|Cell requires cleaning||Remove cell and clean
*this should be done every season
|PUMP MOTOR NOT RUNNING||Is the breaker on?||Turn breaker on|
|Is the power switch on or p4 board on?||Turn switch to the ON position|
|If you have timers on your equipment, did you check them?||Make sure they are set to the proper times to come on|
|SEIZED MOTOR BROKEN PUMP CAPACITOR OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUES||If all the above check out OK, motor may require replacement. Call our Service department to schedule an appointment|
No Cell Power
|NO CELL POWER ERROR||Is the white power cord unplugged?
If “yes” continue to solution
If “no” see below
|If you answered yes, turn off the pump, pull out the white cord, turn off all breakers individually.
Turn breakers back on starting with the one turned off first. Plug white cord back in and turn on pump. Press “menu” button and the system will begin counting down 1-2 minutes.
|Salt cell is dirty||Remove and clean cell|
|If the above solutions still leave the error message, call our service department to schedule an appointment for a service call|
|NO CELL POWER 2||Main board is defective||Call our service department to schedule an appointment for the board replacement|
|SERVICE LIGHT IS ON/FLASHING||May have been left on during a service call||Press the service button twice to restore system to normal operation.
If it is flashing, press service button once
|NO FLOW LED ILLUMINATED||Unit has sensed a “no flow” condition and has stopped generating chlorine.||*check the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit.
*check that the wire is not cut or damagedReplacement switch may be required
|“GENERATING” LED FLASHING||Water temperature is too high/low||Allow pool water to get to ideal operating temperature 65 degrees)|
|“CHECK SALT” LED ILLUMINATED||Inadequate amount of salt in the pool water||If salt level is too low, add salt. *before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to bring a water sample in for testing.
If the salt level in the pool is too high, some of the pool water must be drained and refilled with fresh water. Have a water test done to determine the amount of salt needed.
|SALT LEVELS TOO LOW||Salt cell requires cleaning
*your p4 board will get incorrectReadings if the cell is dirty**
|Remove cell and clean|
|Not enough salt in pool||Have a water test done to determine the levels in the pool.|
|Generation output level set too low/high||Pool not being run long enough.
Your pool equipmentshould be set to run approx. 12 hours per day depending on the size of the pool. If it is still low, increase cell percentage operation.
|Main or circuit board is defective||A technician will be required to meter the output of the boards|
|SALT LEVELS TOO HIGH||Salt cell requires cleaning
*your p4 board will get incorrect readings if the cell is dirty**
|Remove cell and clean|
|Too much salt in pool||Have a water test done to determine the levels in the pool. *if there is a high level of salt in the pool, the pool will need to be drained and fresh water added until readings are correct for your pool.|
|Main or circuit board defective||A technician will be required to meter the output of the boards|
|CLEANER DOESN’T MOVE||“Shoes” are not gripping||Shoes must be able to grip pool surface. Make sure shoes are not worn out. They are unable to grip pool walls if algae is present|
|Pool water temperature too low||Your cleaner will not operate if the pool water temperature is too low. The temperature must be above 65 degrees|
|CLEANER WONT CLIMB THE WALL OF POOL||Pool structure||Depending on the angle of the pool floor to the pool walls, the cleaner may not be able to climb the slope. Manual vacuuming will be required.|
|THE CLEANER STICKS AT THE STEPS||The hose might be too short||Check to see that the hose extends two full sections past the furthest point in the pool.
Check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner’s movement.
Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch of vacuum per section of hose.
Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.
|MY CLEANER FLOATS ABOVE THE POOL FLOOR||The cleaner is heavier than water, and should not float||*make sure that all the air was removed from the cleaner head and hoses during installation.
make sure that the hose extends two full sections past the farthest point in the pool.
Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch vacuum per section of house.
*check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner or the cleaner hose.
*check for signs of air returning to the pool through the return line(s). Look for air bubbles attached to the cleaner hose and head. If present, pull sharply on the cleaner hose to release bubbles. Then, correct the source of the air leak to prevent further floating.
|MY CLEANER MOVES SLOWLY||*Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
*Check for obstructions in the cleaner.
*Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. It should be 1 inch vacuum per section of hose.
|AIR COMES INTO MY POOL WHEN THE CLEANER IS INSTALLED, AND STOPS AFTER THE CLEANER IS REMOVED||There is a leak on the suction side of your filter system that only shows up when you stress the system. I.e. – install your manual vacuum cleaner or an automatic vacuum cleaner. Check for obvious leaks at the pump housing, check the lid and O-ring. If the air persists, contact our service department|
View troubleshooting tips with this handy video!
|LIGHTS WON’T COME ON||Switch is faulty||Call our service department to book an appointment|
|Breaker in main panel tripped||There may be water in the light or deck box or the transformer/bulb requires replacement.
First, reset the breaker by shutting it off and turning it back on.
If this does not work, call for service
|GFI tripped||Reset the GFI (there is a “reset” button inside most light transformers)
If it does not reset, call for service
|Bad bulb||Replace light bulb
*light bulbs are covered under warranty for one season only*
|Always remember to check light settings in the control panel to ensure they are programmed properly and on.|
|WATER IN LIGHT||Bad fixture seal||Replace fixture|
|LED’S WON’T SYNC||Out of sync||To re-sync lights, turn the switch on, then back off, waiting between 11-14 seconds. Turn the switch back on. When they come back on, they should enter program #1 and be syncronized.
*refer to the included color card as a quick reference to available programs
View troubleshooting tips with this handy video!
|PUMP WILL NOT PRIME/NO CIRCULATION||Pool water level is too low||Fill pool. Water should be Â¾ to the mouth of the skimmer|
|Pump basket or skimmer basket is full of debris||*remove pump lid and clean out basket
**there is an O-ring attached to the lid. Make sure this goes back on to ensure no air leaks into your system **
*make sure appropriate ball valves are open
|Pool pump does not have adequate water to prime||Turn pump off.
Remove pump lid and add water to pump
|You may have a suction leak||*check all valves, unions and fittings for leaks.
*ensure pump lid is on tight & lid O-ring is on.
O-ring or gasket may need to be replaced.
|Debris clogging impeller||Remove any debris from impeller
**always ensure system is off before performing this action**
|You may have clogged suction piping which is caused by items that get sucked through the skimmer into the piping usually lodging at any turn in the piping
Sometimes when the pump starts, a small stone or debris by-passes the pump basket and will break the impeller
|Impeller requires replacement. Call our service department to book and appointment|
|LEAK AT PUMP LID||O’ring needs to be cleaned
Pump lid is cracked
|Remove pump lid, clean & lubricate o’ring. Reseal lid.
If leaks continue, replace o’ringReplace lid if cracked
|FAILUER TO START. MOTOR MAKES NO SOUND||Is the breaker on?||Check to see if the switch, timer and/or breaker are in the “on” position. Ensure valves are on normal operation position.
*there may be other electrical issues that may require an electrician*
|Is the power switch on or P4 board on?||Turn switch to “on” position (led’s will light up on P4 board)|
|PUMP/MOTOR NOISY||*motor may be seized and requires replacement
*pump capacitor is broken and requires replacement.
*motor bearings are worn. Motor replacement required
|OTHER CIRCULATION ISSUES||Air bubbles from jets||*what is the pressure guage reading? (should be 8-10 P.S.I)
*pool water level may be too low (water level should be mid-skimmer)
*check pump & skimmer baskets are not full of debris
*Ensure there are no leaks at the equipment pad.
*could be due to a suction leak. Service is required
|Filter needs to be cleaned||If you have a sand filter, backwash the filter.
If you have a cartridge filter, chemically clean cartridges. This can be purchased in our retail store
|PUMP IS LEAKING/WATER
POOLING UNDER PUMP MOTOR
|Pump seal leaking||Shaft seal requires replacement. Call service to book an appointment|
If these troubleshooting tips do not help, contact our service department to schedule a service appointment.
A few handy links:
|FILTER IS RUNNING AT
|Pressure gauge is defective||Turn off the pump. If the gauge does not go down to zero, replace pressure gauge|
|Filter requires cleaning||Backwash your filter|
|Valve may be closed/damaged||Ensure any valves along your return pipe is open|
|FILTER IS RUNNING IN SHORT CYCLES||Improper backwashing||Always backwash until the water in the site glass runs clear (usually about 2 minutes)|
|Clogged filter||If you had pool algae, it may have caused the filter to clog. Balancing the pool water and super chlorinating may help|
|SAND AT THE BOTTOM OF THE POOL||Dirt blew into the pool||It is very possible that dirt blew into your pool. Add water to the pool and vacuum to waste.|
|Broken lateral||A lateral in the filter unit may be cracked or broken and you may see sand coming out from the jets.
We recommend replacement of the filter unit
|Broken dial head||If cracked or broken, replace dial head|
|*drain cap on bottom of filter missing the gasket or not on tight
*tank could be cracked – requires replacement
*filter head cracked – requires replacement
Gaskets will shrink in cold weather which may cause water dripping. Wait for the temperatures to warm up
|Leaking out top handle||May require a new gasket, air relief assembly or filter head replacement|
**ALWAYS REMEMBER BEFORE MOVING THE HANDLE ON THE FILTER HEAD, THE PUMP MUST BE TURNED OFF**
View the Hayward ProSeries manual for more information.
|WATER LOSS IN POOL||How much water are you losing per day?||If you are adding over Â¼” a day, it is considered excessive water loss depending on pool usage and night time termperature (evaporation) **when the days are warmer and the nights are cooler, there is a possibility of more water loss due to evaporation**|
|Is water loss occurring when the system is on or off?||Water loss when the system is running is an indication there is a leak in the underground plumbing lines. A pressure test is required. Call our service department to schedule an appointment|
|Water loss when the system is off, indicates a possible hole/tear in the liner. A drain & search is required. Call our service department to schedule an appointment.
**an on/off test must be performed. Please find attached guidelines for testing.
|LINER IS FLOATING||Hole in liner||A drain & search must be performed to find and patch any holes/tears. Call our service department to make an appointment|
|Sump well is not being maintained||It is very important that your sump well be monitored and drained when it is full. This should be done during the winter/spring months as well.
If you do not have a sump well, you may have a plumbing leak. Call service to book an appointment
|WRINKLES IN LINER||Pool water has not been properly balanced||If you keep your pool chlorine level consistently high, or PH level consistently low, you could develop puckering in your pool liner.
We recommend a drain & reset of your liner. Call our service department to schedule an appt.
|Water has seeped in behind liner||This can occur in 2 ways.
The sump well has been allowed to fill and has drained behind the liner, or there is a hole in the liner and pool water has seeped behind. (generally water loss will be noted if there is a hole in the liner)
|The only way to remove liner wrinkles is to perform a drain & reset of your liner. There is never a guarantee that the wrinkles will come out or will not return.|
|LINER HAS COME OUT OF COPING||This is a common occurrence. To put the liner back into the coping, simply pull the liner and snap back in. If you are having problems pulling the liner back, use a kettle. The hot water will make the liner more flexible and easier to work with.|